“Once upon a time in fashion, a land renowned for its magnificent landscapes, cultural legacy, and fashion culture as vibrant as its calendar of festivals stood in the center of the Indian subcontinent. Bengal was the name of this country, and its history of men’s fashion was a tapestry woven with cultural, political, and innovative threads. A fascinating story reflecting the region’s rich array of cultures, Bengal’s voyage through the pages of fashion history includes everything from the extravagant garments inspired by the Mughal era to the fusion of Western influences and local creativity. Come along on a narrative adventure as I reveal the fascinating history of men’s fashion in Bengal, where each item of clothing and accessory has a backstory.”
The Mughal Era: A sneak peek into the Bengal’s Royal Wardrobe
The Mughal rulers during the Mughal era significantly impacted Bengal with their luxurious and exquisite clothing from the early 16th to the mid-18th century. Bengal’s men’s attire changed dramatically as the area assimilated and modified the imperial fashions.
Mughal Court influences:
Bengal’s fashion scene benefited from the splendor and elegance that the Mughals introduced. Bengali nobles absorbed their taste for luxurious fabrics, elaborate needlework, and a regal style. The impact was especially noticeable in the clothing worn by the aristocracy and nobles. Men would wear highly embroidered clothing like silk, muslin, velvet, and brocade robes, ornamented with delicate gold or silver threadwork and floral designs using colors derived from different dyes, such as cochineal, sulfate of iron, sulfate of copper, and sulfate of antimony.
Moreover, men usually dress in long and short robes and jackets, such as the long-sleeved chogha (clothing). They used to cover their head with a pagri (turban), and they demonstrated their social rank by wearing these elaborate turbans and jewelry that matched their elegant, regal attire. Nevertheless, we cannot forget the sashes (patka) that covered the waist and pants “Paijama” – that gave the English word Pajama.
What the Commoner Wore:
Bengali men of the ordinary people had their unique clothes, while the elite wore Mughal-inspired apparel. They usually dress comfortably for the tropical weather in kurta-style shirts and dhotis or loincloths. Nevertheless, despite their simplicity, these clothes had a distinct regional appeal. Men’s apparel was frequently colored in earthy, natural hues and occasionally embellished with subdued local patterns. During this time, Mughal influences set the groundwork for Bengal’s dynamic and ethnically diverse fashion history.
1870s: Bengal Renaissance and Men’s Apparel
Bengal’s history underwent a sea change in the 1870s when the province saw the Bengal Renaissance, a period of cultural awakening and revival. This era significantly influenced men’s attire, catalyzing a renaissance in literature, art, and social change.
The Bengal Renaissance was attributed to a resurgence of interest in traditional Indian culture and ideals. Men’s apparel mirrored this period to embrace their ethnic background. Men started to prefer clothing items like Rabindranath Tagore’s, and his brother Jyotirindranath Tagore, in dhoti, kurta, and achkan, a knee-length coat. The clothes, emphasizing Bengal’s rich cultural legacy with their elaborate patterns and vivid colors, were frequently made from handwoven textiles.
The Bengal Renaissance influenced men’s wear not only in terms of style but also to express cultural pride and defy colonial domination. This era’s fashion perfectly captured the spirit of renewal and the return of Bengal’s distinct personality.
1890s: Classicism in the Face of Change
In Bengal, the 1890s brought forth much social and political change, mirroring menswear. Men’s clothing of Bengali descent experienced significant changes while the area struggled with the effects of British colonialism.
Influences from the West and the Dhoti-Kurta Combo:
Western-inspired apparel, such as shirts and pants, appeared in Bengal around the 1890s. This effect was particularly noticeable among professionals and urban elites. A considerable proportion of the populace continued to wear traditional clothes, especially the dhoti-kurta set, even if some people adopted Western fashion.
The Adaptable Kurta-Dhoti:
Bengali men’s fashion during the 1890s was in transition, striking a careful balance between traditional and Western looks. The conventional Bengali outfit still consists of the kurta, a loose tunic, and the dhoti, a rectangular fabric knotted around the waist. The lightweight cotton or muslin used to make these clothes provided comfort in the tropical environment of the area. Subtle differences in embroidery, fabric selections, and color allowed individual expression, even though the fundamental shape stayed conventional.
Bengal’s Fusion Fashion in the 1900s – 1910s: Edwardian Elegance
The 1900s were a dynamic time of cultural fusion and adaptation, as seen by the unique blending of traditional Bengali attire with Western Edwardian trends. During this time, men’s design witnessed the rise of classic kurta-dhoti ensembles and Edwardian-style suits, each tailored to the wearer’s taste and the occasion.
The Edwardian Style’s Influence:
Bengal saw increased Western influence throughout its British colonial era, especially in its cities. Edwardian fashion influenced the educated elite, defined by fitted suits with structured shapes, high collars, and waistcoats.
Kurta-Dhoti for Comfort and Tradition:
Many Bengali men continued to choose the kurta-dhoti combo as their go-to outfit. This outfit was comfortable and flexible, perfect for daily use in the tropical environment as it was made from handwoven textiles. Men wore to highlight the ongoing value of tradition and legacy during religious rituals, cultural events, and casual get-togethers.
Bengal saw a fashion divide in the 1910s, with kurta-dhoti clothing demonstrating a dedication to traditional traditions and Edwardian-style suits signifying modernity. Fusion fashion, which will develop over the next few years, has its roots in this era.
1940s – the Partition Era
Amid the partition in the Indian subcontinent, men’s apparel illustrated the socio-political environment. Traditional clothing, like kurtas and dhotis, continued to be worn during the turmoil, signifying a link to one’s cultural heritage. Men would be often seen in “Khadi,” a piece of clothing famously worn by Mahatma Gandhi. The Khadi is a handwoven and handspun cloth that represents the peace and harmony of India, and it was a crucial component of the “Swadeshi Movement.”
The Liberation War of the 1970s: Iconic Style in an Era of Liberty
Bangladesh experienced great turmoil throughout the 1970s as it battled for its independence from Pakistan. With the introduction of distinctive clothing and symbols of patriotism, this battle for sovereignty not only marked a momentous event in the country’s history but also had a lasting impact on fashion.
Mujib coat: A Sign of Power and Authority
Sheikh Mujibur Rahman, the founding leader of Bangladesh, inspired the Mujib coat. It represented the leadership and struggle for independence. Many well-known movement figures wore this coat, distinguished by its knee-length style and Nehru collar, as a symbol of their dedication to the cause. It is still worn at national festivities and festivals as a show of patriotism.
Patriotic Clothing
Ordinary people wore their support for the cause to show their support during the battle. Many chose to wear apparel in the white or red and green hues of the national flag. Wearing patriotic colors was a little but effective way to demonstrate solidarity and togetherness.
The Mukti Bahini Uniform: An Icon of Opposition
The distinctive outfit of the Mukti Bahini, the Bangladeshi liberation warriors, was made up of camouflage clothing. This clothing served as a symbol of their persistent commitment to independence and their willingness to make sacrifices. It serves as a reminder of the bravery and tenacity of those who battled for Bangladesh’s independence.
In addition to reflecting the spirit of the national battle, Bangladesh’s Liberation War fashion of the 1970s was a permanent reminder of the country’s steadfast dedication to freedom and independence. Even now, Bangladeshis still have a particular place in their hearts for these prominent clothes and symbols.
A Fashion Comeback: the 1980s and 1990s
The 1980s and 1990s were pivotal periods in Bangladeshi fashion history, characterized by a unique fusion of boutique growth, historical resurgence, and the rise of the ready-made garment (RMG) sector. This decade saw a rebirth of fashion that had a significant influence on the men’s apparel market.
The growth of the RMG sector
The ready-made garment (RMG) sector was established in the 1980s, and Bangladesh became one of the world’s top producers of ready-made clothing and a global powerhouse for this industry. The RMG industry aided in the expansion of the nation’s economy and created new channels for the impact of global fashion trends on regional looks.
Boutiques and Customized Looks:
In Bangladesh’s metropolitan hubs, boutiques profilate between the 1980s – 1990s.
- Aarong
- Rina Latif – The First Lady of Fashion
- Kay Kraft
- Dress Dale
These shops allowed designers to showcase their distinctive, customized looks tailored to each customer’s tastes. People could adopt more customized, handcrafted apparel and escape the confines of mass-produced clothing thanks to the trend toward boutique shopping.
Bringing Back Mughal Elegance
The grandeur of the Mughal Empire served as a source of inspiration for the 1990s revival of interest in traditional fabrics and patterns. Clothing with elaborate handwoven designs, such as the well-known “jamdani” and exquisite “muslin,” gained popularity. Sherwanis – long coats with labyrinthine embroidery, earned their reputation in this era and were worn for special occasions like weddings.
Portraits of Sherwanis: 1950s – 2020
Images: Wikipedia, Times of India, GetEthnic
The Millennial Era and Contemporary Changes: 2000s to the Present
Men’s fashion dramatically changed in Bangladesh around the start of 2000 due to the millennial generation’s ascent, increased consumerism, and a rising preference for a more contemporary aesthetic. Influenced by globalization, digital media, and shifting consumer tastes, we reflect the rapid evolution of style in the nation.
The Millennials Influence
In Bangladesh, the millennial generation came of age in the 2000s, and their fashion preferences started influencing the sector. Millennials searched for distinctive and expressive styles, and they preferred experimenting and fusing traditional and modern components.
Consumption and Brand Awareness:
Bangladesh saw a rise in consumerism due to a thriving economy and an infusion of global fashion brands. Men started to care more about brands and were looking for apparel that was both stylish and of high quality. Access to international fashion trends increased with the proliferation of shopping centers and retail stores.
Up-to-Date Adaptations
The fashion industry changed to meet the needs of contemporary tastes, and conventional clothing, including the kurta and Panjabi. Wearing fusion—a combination of Western and Eastern styles—became fashionable. Western clothing, such as formal suits, jeans, blazers, tuxedos, and t-shirts, became more popular, particularly among young people living in cities.
Images: Zurhem
Influences of Digital Media
The proliferation of social media, e-commerce, and digital media platforms has made it easier to access international fashion trends. Men further blurred the barriers between local and foreign fashions by looking to fashion bloggers and internet influencers for inspiration.
Resources:
April 17, 2018, Syed Muhammed Shoeb, Daily Sun, Evolution of Bengali Costumes retrieved on October 29, 2023, https://www.daily-sun.com/printversion/details/302810/Evolution-of-Bengali-Costumes
May 24, 2021, Brig R P Singh, VSM (retired), The Daily Star, How the Mukti Bahini was trained, retrieved on October 29, 2023, https://www.thedailystar.net/in-focus/news/how-the-mukti-bahini-was-trained-2097481
July 20, 2021, Sohini Dey, The <oice of Fashion, Fashioning the Bengali, retrieved on October 29, 2023, https://www.thevoiceoffashion.com/fabric-of-india/features/fashioning-the-bengali–4564
December 1, 2020, Mashiat Mutmainnah, joremagazine, 150 years of Bengali Fashion: Everything you need to know from Renaissance to Revolution, retrieved on October 29, 2023, https://www.joremagazine.com/post/150-years-of-bengali-fashion
February 4, 2017, Mehrin Mubdi Chowdhury, The Daily Star, Fashion through the years: Bangladesh, retrieved on October 29, 2023, https://www.thedailystar.net/lifestyle/fashion-through-the-years-bangladesh-1355911
Md. Apel Hossain, Advance Textile, History of garments industry in Bangladesh, retrieved on Oct 30, 2023, https://www.advancetextile.net/2021/09/history-of-garments-industry-in-bangladesh.html